Mermaids are whimsical, mysterious, and beautiful, much like January’s Handmade Beauty Box soap project. The ombre design was inspired by the combination of greens and blues found in the ocean and the glitter will add a little sparkle into your life (always say yes to glitter). The fragrance oil is a calming scent with notes of French Lavender, Fir Pine, Egyptian Jasmine, and Vanilla. We’ve heard it described as a “mature and grown-up vanilla.” So find your inner mermaid and have fun creating a soap that belongs in the sea!
TIME: 30-40 MINUTES
YIELDS: 2 LBS SOAP
Your Handmade Beauty Box includes:
2 lbs Stephenson Vanilla Stable Melt and Pour Soap Base
(this base prevents discoloration from fragrance oils containing vanillin)
1 oz Relaxing Fragrance Oil
0.3 oz Iridescent Glitter
½ Hydrated Chrome Green Color Block
Aluminum Bottle with spray top (for rubbing alcohol)
Silicone Soap Mold
Finished Labels (located in the bottom of the box)
What You’ll Need From Home:
1 medium heat safe container
1 spoon for mixing
Non-serrated knife for cutting the soap
Candy thermometer or temperature gun (optional)
PREP: Fill the spray bottle with rubbing alcohol. This will be used to eliminate air bubbles and help the layers stick together. Instructions below are totally optional – feel free to make a solid teal soap, or just do two layers, or leave out the glitter. This is your project so get creative. Let’s get started!
ONE: Open the plastic container and pop out the big block of soap. Cut the block of soap into 2 equal pieces and cut one-half of the soap base into 1” cubes setting the other half aside. Place the 1” cubes into your heat safe container and melt the soap in the microwave on 30-second bursts, stirring in between bursts with a spoon, until the soap is fully melted.
TWO: Once the soap is fully melted add 1.5 teaspoons of glitter and 10-15ml of Relaxing Fragrance Oil. Mix well.
THREE: Pour a thin layer of the soap, about ¼ cup, into your silicone mold and spritz 4-5 sprays of rubbing alcohol to eliminate air bubbles. This layer should be just enough soap to cover the bottom of the mold. You can totally eyeball it. Let this layer cool for 5-6 minutes until it’s hard enough to support another layer of soap.
FOUR: Add a sliver of green colorant to the remaining melted soap and mix well until the colorant is fully dispersed. Remember that we’re going for an ombre effect, light to dark, so use a small amount of colorant in this step – we don’t want to go too dark too soon.
FIVE: After the first layer of soap has hardened, spritz the first layer with rubbing alcohol and pour your second layer of lightly colored green soap on top of the first layer. Pour just enough to cover the first layer of soap, about ¼ cup (again, eyeball it). Spritz with rubbing alcohol to eliminate air bubbles. Check out our layering tips on page 4.
SIX: Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you’ve used up all of your soap. Add a tiny bit more green colorant to each layer of soap to get a darker hue for each layer. You may need to reheat the soap a few times during this process while you’re waiting for your layers to harden. Make your layers as thick or thin as you want – get creative and have fun with this design!
TIP: Cover your melted soap with plastic wrap while your layers are hardening to keep it warm.
SEVEN: Once you’ve poured your last layer, let the soap cool for 4-5 hours. Then unmold by gently pressing on the bottom of the mold to release the airlock. The soap should slide right out.
EIGHT: Cut the soap into squares or rectangles as big or small as you want. Then wrap in plastic wrap or store in an airtight plastic container.
NINE: Cut out the cigar bands located in the bottom of your box and wrap them around the soap. They’re stickers – just peel off the back! Feel free to trim as needed depending on the size of your soaps.
TEN: Repeat all of these steps using the second half of your soap that you set aside earlier.
TIPS FOR LAYERING MELT AND POUR SOAP: Layering melt and pour soap is all about timing and temperatures.
(1) Pour the second layer of soap as soon as the first layer has hardened enough (or formed a thick enough skin) to hold the weight of the second layer. The key is to pour fresh soap and pour it quickly.
(2) Spritz the first layer with rubbing alcohol, 5-6 sprays, then immediately pour the second layer of soap. This will help the layers adhere.
(3) Pour the second layer of soap at about 130 degrees. If you don’t have a thermometer, let the soap cool down until it gets a little bit thicker and starts to form a “skin” on top of the soap. The soap should not be hot, just lukewarm. If the soap cooled down too much, just pop it back in the microwave on 30-second bursts. Heat as needed.
(4) Cut the final soap loaf as soon as it has fully hardened. Waiting too long may split the layers when cutting.
(5) Remember that this is an art so have fun!